Carnival
Carnival (Carnaval) is a festival held in the
period before the beginning of Lent. An opportunity to party and
enjoy life before the time of self denial to come (well historically
anyway). Carnival was banned in Spain during the Franco era but is
back with a vengeance. The Santa Cruz carnival is claimed to be
second only to Rio (though you might want to take that with a pinch of
salt). In Tenerife carnival lasts nearly three weeks and begins with
the election of the Carnival Queens (Damas de Carnaval), which can be
bloody if the 'right' girl doesn't win. There is dancing in the
streets every night in the last week and an obstacle race for drag queens
who negotiate the cobbles of Puerto de la Cruz in outrageously high heels
and sometimes obscene costumes. The highlight of the festival is the
grand parade when the Carnival Queens, drag queens and anyone else who
wants to dress up as a furry animal or an eskimo, dance through the
streets.
Carnival ends officially on Ash Wednesday, with the
historically anti-clerical ceremony called the Entierro de la Sardina
(the burial of the sardine). A large effigy of a sardine is carried
through the streets on a bier to be ceremonially burnt on the beach to the
accompaniment of fireworks (what isn't?). The funeral procession is
attended by groups of mourners in mock grief, many dressed up as priests
or nuns who, if really lamenting anything, are grieving for the end of
Carnival.